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Chapulines in Oaxaca: Primer & Recipe for Mexican Snack Food

01/14/2013

 
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Grasshoppers, more popularly known as chapulines here in the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca, are one of the most popular snack foods enjoyed by residents.  Although they are available year round, in particular throughout the central valleys and in the city of Oaxaca, chapulines are best eaten when they are in season during the summer and autumn months when crops and grasses are tall as a result of the rains, thus providing ample nourishment for the insect.

Chapulines are frequently consumed on the street when purchased from vendors in or near Oaxaca’s markets, or from itinerate saleswomen plying their product to passersby on the sidewalks and pedestrian corridors in downtown Oaxaca.  However they are also a popular menu items in both middle-of-the-road and high end restaurants not only in Oaxaca but in other parts of Mexico.

Chapulines are usually served in Oaxacan restaurants as part of a mixed appetizer plate along with one or two locally produced cheeses, Oaxacan sausage (chorizo), spiced peanuts and crackling pork fat (chicharrón). At fiestas, from the most humble rural function to the most lavish high class event, a mixed botana plate which includes chapulines is commonplace, often expected, and always enjoyed. The high protein high jumper has also become popular as an ingredient in more upscale Oaxacan recipes, such as in dips and stuffing.

Harvesting Chapulines in Oaxaca, Mexico

Grasshoppers tend to be harvested in the fields of Oaxaca either early morning or late afternoon.  While more sophisticated operations call for the use of nets, small-scale family collecting is usually done by swooping a wicker or synthetic basket over the fields of green.  Early in the season they are gathered from areas where herbs and grasses grow, then later or once the little critters have grown a bit bigger they are found nourishing themselves around crops such as corn and squash.  Commercial production often uses alfalfa as a feeding ground for chapulines.

With the large operations there is less likelihood that insects other than grasshoppers, and unwanted grasses and small leaves will find their way into the nets. The same holds true of small scale production later in the season when they are harvested from amongst vegetable crops.  It’s small scale early season harvesting of chapulines which results in the occasional trapping of other small creatures such as larvae, locusts and other unwanted guests as well as thistle, small weeds and leaves.  When this does in fact occur more attention is required when preparing a chapulín recipe.  

Recipe for Chapulines in Oaxaca:  One of the Most Popular and Healthy Snack Foods in Mexico

Insofar as a picture is worth a thousand words, the following recipe is best supplemented with viewing the photo gallery at this link – harvesting chapulines in Oaxaca, and their preparation:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150329999553921.372282.651578920&type=3

This is particularly important so as to enable the cook to have a better idea of quantities, since this recipe, as is the case with many others which have been formulated in Oaxaca, is based on local tradition which pays little attention to exacting measurements.                                 

Ingredients:

·       1 pound of live chapulines, any size, or small local grasshoppers

·       Several garlic teeth, ground in processor or molcajete with a couple of tbsp of course salt

·       Juice from a few good size limes

·       A half bunch of (preferably) fresh epazote

Preparation:

1.     Bring water to a boil, then add chapulines

2.     Return to a boil, then simmer a few minutes at least until the chapulines are red

3.     Drain chapulines without adding additional water to the sieve

4.     Lay out on a large platter and remove any grasses,  and foreign insects and what not

5.     Place drained chapulines in saucepan over medium heat, stirring for a minute or two

6.     Add garlic mixture and lime juice, returning to a low simmer

7.     Add epazote leaves and thin stems

8.     Continue over low heat until epazote is no longer green

9.     Drain and place in bowl

10.  Serve with tortillas or use as an ingredient in other recipe

NOTE:  Since I have never tried this recipe with any insect other than chapulines from Oaxaca, Mexico, I’m uncertain as to whether small Canadian or American grasshoppers will turn red or have as agreeable a flavor.  Regarding the latter, it all depends on the chapulín’s diet, climatic conditions and other environmental factors.

Alvin Starkman together with his wife Arlene operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (http://www.casamachaya.com).  He is also a partner in Oaxaca Culinary Tours (http://www.oaxacaculinarytours.com) with Chef Pilar Cabrera.  Alvin assists visitors to the central valleys of Oaxaca to plan their vacations.  He is an avid aficionado of mezcal and pulque (http://www.oaxaca-mezcal.com).

 

Organic Produce in Oaxaca, Mexico, for the Consumer

01/01/2013

 
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While there are indeed producers of certified organic foodstuffs and spirits in the central valleys of the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca, the question arises as to whether tourists on a short visit, or residents of its capital, Oaxaca de Juárez, should go out of their way to seek out production from these purveyors.  Are there healthy, sustainable and environmentally friendly alternatives to shopping in the Friday and Saturday organic market in the Xochimilco neighborhood in the north end of the city, or patronizing restaurants which boast using certified organic produce or being Slow Food proponents?

Cultural, Historical Background to Organic, Free-Range Production in Oaxaca

More than 10,000 years ago nomadic hunters and gatherers first appeared on the Oaxacan landscape; in the central valleys, on the coast, in the mountainous regions of the Sierra Madre del Sur, on the arid desert plains, and elsewhere.

When sedentary lifestyles eventually emerged, cultivation of plants, fruits and vegetables began to take hold, alongside domestication of animals.  Production of corn originated in this part of Mexico, and so along with beans and squash came some of the earliest vegetables and legumes under cultivation.  The arrival of the Spanish in Oaxaca in 1521 resulted in the importation of new products, including animals such as sheep (which were not indigenous to the New World), as well as additional nuts, fruits, herbs and vegetables.

But the state of Oaxaca remained effectively isolated from the rest of the country, and self-sufficient.  Geographical seclusion to a large extent continued until the Pan American highway reached Oaxaca in the late 1940s.  And even since then, many parts of the state have remained rugged and removed from mainstream Oaxacan society.  The eight broad geographical areas in the state, characterized by extremely diverse climatic and growing regions, have continued to support large native populations.

The implication of the foregoing is that many local populations within the state’s 16 indigenous cultures have remained, into the 21st century, almost entirely self-sufficient and reliant upon centuries old production methods, without resorting to chemical insecticides or fertilizers; in effect, models for organic, green and sustainable production.

Organic Non-Certified Agricultural Production in Oaxaca Today

Organically produced fruits and vegetables, as well as free range chickens, turkeys, goats and other hoofed edible animals are readily available for purchase by consumers, and for consumption in restaurants –  without there being any visible seal or signage suggesting the means by which growth has been attained.  There need not be a label on produce in local markets indicating “certified organic” or a Slow Food logo on restaurant menus.  And if a product is available for sale in an “organic market,” does that automatically mean that it has been grown without the use of chemical pesticides or fertilizers, simply by virtue of where it is being offered for sale?

Most small scale farmers, campesinos, cannot afford to use synthetic products to stimulate growth or inhibit infestation.  Just as significantly, they have learned how to grow organically, having watched and assisted their grandparents, their great grandparents, and the generations before them.

It is not suggested that all local producers follow the pure and natural pathway to economic subsistence, but rather that many still exist, are accustomed to and comfortable with their production methods and continue to resist change –  benefiting the middle class health conscious, foreigners and Mexican nationals alike.

It’s the certification, and the logo evidencing certain claims, which are at issue. Many restaurants in Oaxaca serve dishes using organically produced foodstuffs without indicating any designation whatsoever; and vendors at many markets don’t even go as far as suggesting means of production.  It’s simply expected that buyers know that they’re purchasing fresh and organic.

The same rural vendors who have been producing fruits, vegetables, herbs and meat for generations, organically, green and sustainably, sell directly to some restaurants as well as to consumers, quietly and without fanfare – and without charging a premium to cover the cost of membership in a certification program. 

There’s nothing wrong with supporting “organic markets” in Oaxaca, buying certified organic produce and meats, and patronizing restaurants boasting that they are proponents of the Slow Food movement.  But you do pay a price.  Furthermore, with a little homework (i.e. asking and visiting rural producers) you can eat just as green and sustainable food and just as pure mezcal, without demanding to see a label evidencing proof.   It’s easy to support the little producers whose life is organic and free range, and always has been.

Ask in some of the better yet small and quaint downtown Oaxaca restaurants.  Visit marketplaces in the city on their market days where you’ll see vendors sitting at the entranceways or outside, on the ground, selling produce they’ve picked perhaps 12 hours ago, just prior to hopping on a bus to Oaxaca.  You can find the same thing by venturing out of the city to weekly village marketplaces, in addition to poultry, goats, and so on. 

It’s much more difficult to buy green when in New York, Chicago, Toronto or Los Angeles.  And so it makes sense in such cities to go where you have the assurance, based on reputation, labeling and marketing. But Oaxaca is different, and in fact distinct from other cities and regions in Mexico, especially from those in the northern half of the country.  It’s easy to maintain an organic, sustainable lifestyle in Oaxaca, without paying the price and supporting commercial enterprise, and at the same time supporting small, rural organic producers.

Alvin Starkman operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast with his wife Arlene (
http://www.casamachaya.com), and Oaxaca Culinary Tours with Chef Pilar Cabrera (http://www.oaxacaculinarytours.com).  However, the opinions expressed herein are Alvin’s alone. He has written over 280 articles about life and cultural traditions in Toronto, and frequently takes tourists to the state to visit the central valley sights.

 

    Alvin Starkman

    blogs as a contributing writer for Mexico Today, a program for Marca País - Imagen de México

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